Washington/Slagbaai National Park
In 2009 the park celebrates its 40th anniversary. This wildlife preserve is the first of its kind in the Netherland Antilles and covers some 13,500 acres. The park is open daily from 8am-5pm although the gates are closed to entrants from 3pm. There are two routes you can follow: the "short" route which is 15 miles (24km) long and takes about 1-2 hours or the "long" route which is 22 miles (35km) long and takes between 2-3 hours. The routes are rugged and force you to drive slowly enough to appreciate the terrain and the wildlife.
What to look out for...
The first stop after leaving the gate is Saliña Matijs (shown right). When it is dry the pan evaporates leaving a hard salt crust. A few miles further on a side road leads to Playa Chikitu - an excellent beach for sunbathing, but the currents make it dangerous for swimming. A little bit further on you'll find Poos di Mangel on the left towards Boka Bartol and is a popular watering hole for a number of bird species. You may well see a number of black-necked stilts and yellow warblers.
A few miles further down the road you reach Seru Bantana (Window Hill) where the rocks have formed a natural window looking out to sea (shown left). Beyond this by the sea is Malmok Lighthouse right next to Bonaire's most northern point. Further down the route you will see Mount Brandaris, Bonaire's highest point, standing 241m high directly ahead of you. Take a right at the fork and you will head to one of the best snorkelling beaches in Bonaire - Playa Funchi. Flamingos are also quite common at the saliña (salt flat) behind the beach.
If you turn left at the fork, the road leads to Bronswinkel Well where hundreds of birds come to drink. Among them you will find Blue pigeons, yellow breasts, stilts, gray kingbirds and the odd screeching parakeet. In the less densely vegetated areas of the park you will see the large, tall cacti, reminiscent of those in the arid Southwest United States. Further down the road between Playa Funchi and Wayaka you may, if you are vigilant, to see another of the peculiar attractions of the park - the giant iguana lizards. Past Saliña Wakaya the road leads down to Boca Slagbaai which is an excellent spot for a rest, swim, picnic and a snorkel.
Iguanas (shown left) tend to rest, well-camouflaged, up in the trees. They can keep absolutely still for long periods of time so spotting one up in the branches requires a little effort. They are bigger than you might expect, especially if you are imagining a glorified house lizard (as seen in many Caribbean households). They can be up to 3-4 feet (1-1.5m) long and carry a good bit of weight too. Docile and slow-moving though they may seem, they are the model of economy. If they need to make a quick getaway, up goes the tail and , rather like a Citrôen's hydraulic suspension, their legs straighten up and these large creatures race over the ground with an alarming turn of pace. Their thick, reptile skin is clearly visible and their tails have black rings. Luckily within the confines of the Washington/Slagbaai National Park they lose their inherent shyness and are not too bothered by the odd visitor. When you are only used to the fast, darting movements of small lizards, the slow, deliberate gaze of these magnificent creatures is memorable.
What is remarkable about the Washington/Slagbaai National Park is the number of small ecosystems that it contains. It is vitally important to many resident and itinerant bird species, including the Greater Flamingo. Habitat destruction is a major concern in wildlife preservation and the park shows how many animals rely on fragile ecosystems. It is one of the best examples of its kind in the Caribbean and its 40th Anniversary comes at a time when environmental issues in the region need an example to follow. This park demonstrates how the limited natural resources of small developing islands can be used intelligently and responsibly. Donations are always greatly appreciated.
